Top 10 Greatest Rock Climbing Destinations in the US
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VOICE OVER: Phoebe de Jeu
WRITTEN BY: Caitlin Johnson
Welcome to MojoTravels and today we'll be counting down our picks for the top 10 greatest rock-climbing destinations in the US.
For this list, we're looking at amazing climbing spots in the USA; we have a separate one for spots around the world! Also note, numerous locations on this list are for trained, experienced climbers only, and fees may be applicable.
For this list, we're looking at amazing climbing spots in the USA; we have a separate one for spots around the world! Also note, numerous locations on this list are for trained, experienced climbers only, and fees may be applicable.
Top 10 Greatest Rock Climbing Destinations in the US
The fifty states have plenty to offer the climbing aficionado. Welcome to MojoTravels and today we’ll be counting down our picks for the top 10 greatest rock-climbing destinations in the US.
For this list, we’re looking at amazing climbing spots in the USA; we have a separate one for spots around the world! Also note, numerous locations on this list are for trained, experienced climbers only, and fees may be applicable.
#10: New River Gorge, West Virginia
Climbing is both a passion and big business in West Virginia, with the New River Gorge a particular destination. Relatively close to cities like Washington, D.C. and Pittsburgh, getting to this climbing haven couldn’t be easier, even if you only go for the day. The sandstone offers lots of naturally forming climbing routes and it’s accessible all year long, though the early summer is the best time to go. Especially popular with sport climbers, you won’t find many routes suitable for beginners out here, but any climber will want it on their bucket list. And it’s even more unique for its popularity with BASE jumpers.
#9: Acadia National Park, Maine
This awesome stretch of New England coastline might not be the first place you think of when it comes to climbing opportunities, but if you’re feeling brave, you can scale its many granite cliffs and overhangs with the choppy sea below. The routes here are mostly intermediate, with a handful of especially difficult ones for sport climbers, and may be made harder depending on what time of year you go. You won’t want to find yourself caught in the middle of a storm above the sea, after all, so make sure you head to Acadia in the warmer months.
#8: Devils Tower, Wyoming
While it was made instantly recognisable by its role in Steven Spielberg’s “Close Encounters of the Third Kind,” you’re unlikely to run into any aliens at Devils Tower. But don’t be dissuaded; there are plenty more reasons to go. The tower has been a siren call for climbers for decades because of its distinctive shape, and there are plenty of routes; the easiest and most popular is Durrance. But climbers should be aware that the monument is sacred to many Native Americans, and religious rituals are held in June, banning climbers from ascending. It’s also important to register before attempting a climb at all.
#7: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas
There’s more than enough reason to head to this corner of Arkansas at any time of year, with its array of sandstone, bouldering options, and intermediate traditional and sport routes, but any climber worth their salt will know the best time to go is late September. That’s when this climbing destination on private-owned property hosts the extreme 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell climbing competition is held annually, a test of endurance suitable only for the best climbers in the world. The aim is for teams to climb as many routes as possible in 24 hours, earning points for skill, and losing points for slips and falls.
#6: Zion National Park, Utah
As one of America’s most beautiful national parks, the best views of Zion are afforded to those brave enough to scale its enormous walls – many of which are hundreds or thousands of feet tall. While the orange sandstone can be tricky for those more used to granite, if you’re careful and take your time, you shouldn’t run into too much trouble out here. Early spring is the best time of year to go, though you have to be wary of nesting birds when choosing your route. It’s an ideal destination for expert climbers, with lots of great sport and rope climbing options.
#5: Mount Rushmore, South Dakota
One of America’s most famous monuments is open to climbers, and while there are other climbing opportunities in South Dakota’s Black Hills, Mount Rushmore entices people from all around the world. While people aren’t allowed to climb the presidents’ heads themselves (without special permission from the park’s superintendent) the Black Hills are still full of quality granite perfect for climbers. The only rules are to be respectful of the area, much of which is sacred to local Native Americans. One route to check out is a large wall called Emancipation Rockphormation on the back of the mountain.
#4: Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
In the vast plains of the Mojave Desert, you’ll find one of Nevada’s most famed and stunning natural landmarks, right outside nearby Las Vegas. So-named for its distinctive red walls, few places on Earth look like Red Rock Canyon, and from the right angle it looks more like Mars. Many of its sheer cliffs are over 3000 feet tall, and Rainbow Mountain, a popular spot for trad climbers, is more than double that. While you’ll encounter lots of tourists visiting from the city, not many of them are going rock climbing, meaning lots of the canyon’s best walls shouldn’t be too crowded.
#3: Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
The longest mountain range in North America, the Rockies run south from Canada all the way to New Mexico; but the best place to go climb them might just be Colorado. The Rockies are widely regarded as a top climbing destination, and their scale means no level of climber will be left behind. Lumpy Ridge is an accessible spot good to ease people into the region, while Hallett Peak’s distinctive faces are popular and offer a moderate alpine climb. Of course, there are plenty of challenges, like the Yellow Wall and Syke’s Sickle, for more advanced climbers venturing into the peaks.
#2: Joshua Tree National Park, California
With almost 800,000 acres of protected wilderness to explore, Joshua Tree is every climber’s dream. It has an incredible array of routes from beginner to extreme, meaning there’s no excuse not to head out there and explore. Even if you’ve never climbed in your life, there are many guides and lessons available. Joshua Tree is best known as a winter climbing destination because of its mild temperatures, though it can get especially crowded. In recent years, climbing has started to damage some areas of the park, however, so make sure you do your best to leave no trace everywhere you go.
Before we unveil our top pick, here are a few Honorable Mentions:
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Leavenworth, Washington
#1: Yosemite National Park, California
A rock-climbing mecca, Yosemite is famous for its beauty, size, and outdoor opportunities; and most renowned of all is El Capitan, a granite wall roughly 3600 feet tall. El Capitan can be deadly and is not for inexperienced climbers, and its Dawn Wall is considered by some to be the hardest and most dangerous climb in the world. But there are far more forgiving areas in the rest of the park. Tuolumne Meadows doesn’t draw enormous crowds and its rocky domes make it a haven for boulderers, while the Merced River Canyon is for all the intermediate climbers out there.
The fifty states have plenty to offer the climbing aficionado. Welcome to MojoTravels and today we’ll be counting down our picks for the top 10 greatest rock-climbing destinations in the US.
For this list, we’re looking at amazing climbing spots in the USA; we have a separate one for spots around the world! Also note, numerous locations on this list are for trained, experienced climbers only, and fees may be applicable.
#10: New River Gorge, West Virginia
Climbing is both a passion and big business in West Virginia, with the New River Gorge a particular destination. Relatively close to cities like Washington, D.C. and Pittsburgh, getting to this climbing haven couldn’t be easier, even if you only go for the day. The sandstone offers lots of naturally forming climbing routes and it’s accessible all year long, though the early summer is the best time to go. Especially popular with sport climbers, you won’t find many routes suitable for beginners out here, but any climber will want it on their bucket list. And it’s even more unique for its popularity with BASE jumpers.
#9: Acadia National Park, Maine
This awesome stretch of New England coastline might not be the first place you think of when it comes to climbing opportunities, but if you’re feeling brave, you can scale its many granite cliffs and overhangs with the choppy sea below. The routes here are mostly intermediate, with a handful of especially difficult ones for sport climbers, and may be made harder depending on what time of year you go. You won’t want to find yourself caught in the middle of a storm above the sea, after all, so make sure you head to Acadia in the warmer months.
#8: Devils Tower, Wyoming
While it was made instantly recognisable by its role in Steven Spielberg’s “Close Encounters of the Third Kind,” you’re unlikely to run into any aliens at Devils Tower. But don’t be dissuaded; there are plenty more reasons to go. The tower has been a siren call for climbers for decades because of its distinctive shape, and there are plenty of routes; the easiest and most popular is Durrance. But climbers should be aware that the monument is sacred to many Native Americans, and religious rituals are held in June, banning climbers from ascending. It’s also important to register before attempting a climb at all.
#7: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas
There’s more than enough reason to head to this corner of Arkansas at any time of year, with its array of sandstone, bouldering options, and intermediate traditional and sport routes, but any climber worth their salt will know the best time to go is late September. That’s when this climbing destination on private-owned property hosts the extreme 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell climbing competition is held annually, a test of endurance suitable only for the best climbers in the world. The aim is for teams to climb as many routes as possible in 24 hours, earning points for skill, and losing points for slips and falls.
#6: Zion National Park, Utah
As one of America’s most beautiful national parks, the best views of Zion are afforded to those brave enough to scale its enormous walls – many of which are hundreds or thousands of feet tall. While the orange sandstone can be tricky for those more used to granite, if you’re careful and take your time, you shouldn’t run into too much trouble out here. Early spring is the best time of year to go, though you have to be wary of nesting birds when choosing your route. It’s an ideal destination for expert climbers, with lots of great sport and rope climbing options.
#5: Mount Rushmore, South Dakota
One of America’s most famous monuments is open to climbers, and while there are other climbing opportunities in South Dakota’s Black Hills, Mount Rushmore entices people from all around the world. While people aren’t allowed to climb the presidents’ heads themselves (without special permission from the park’s superintendent) the Black Hills are still full of quality granite perfect for climbers. The only rules are to be respectful of the area, much of which is sacred to local Native Americans. One route to check out is a large wall called Emancipation Rockphormation on the back of the mountain.
#4: Red Rock Canyon, Nevada
In the vast plains of the Mojave Desert, you’ll find one of Nevada’s most famed and stunning natural landmarks, right outside nearby Las Vegas. So-named for its distinctive red walls, few places on Earth look like Red Rock Canyon, and from the right angle it looks more like Mars. Many of its sheer cliffs are over 3000 feet tall, and Rainbow Mountain, a popular spot for trad climbers, is more than double that. While you’ll encounter lots of tourists visiting from the city, not many of them are going rock climbing, meaning lots of the canyon’s best walls shouldn’t be too crowded.
#3: Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
The longest mountain range in North America, the Rockies run south from Canada all the way to New Mexico; but the best place to go climb them might just be Colorado. The Rockies are widely regarded as a top climbing destination, and their scale means no level of climber will be left behind. Lumpy Ridge is an accessible spot good to ease people into the region, while Hallett Peak’s distinctive faces are popular and offer a moderate alpine climb. Of course, there are plenty of challenges, like the Yellow Wall and Syke’s Sickle, for more advanced climbers venturing into the peaks.
#2: Joshua Tree National Park, California
With almost 800,000 acres of protected wilderness to explore, Joshua Tree is every climber’s dream. It has an incredible array of routes from beginner to extreme, meaning there’s no excuse not to head out there and explore. Even if you’ve never climbed in your life, there are many guides and lessons available. Joshua Tree is best known as a winter climbing destination because of its mild temperatures, though it can get especially crowded. In recent years, climbing has started to damage some areas of the park, however, so make sure you do your best to leave no trace everywhere you go.
Before we unveil our top pick, here are a few Honorable Mentions:
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Leavenworth, Washington
#1: Yosemite National Park, California
A rock-climbing mecca, Yosemite is famous for its beauty, size, and outdoor opportunities; and most renowned of all is El Capitan, a granite wall roughly 3600 feet tall. El Capitan can be deadly and is not for inexperienced climbers, and its Dawn Wall is considered by some to be the hardest and most dangerous climb in the world. But there are far more forgiving areas in the rest of the park. Tuolumne Meadows doesn’t draw enormous crowds and its rocky domes make it a haven for boulderers, while the Merced River Canyon is for all the intermediate climbers out there.
